The immigrant poets reached the new land but they lost their beloved muse.
After a year since Ann Demeulemeester’s departure from her ephonymous brand, a shadow of the old magic still fills the label with nostalgic beauty. Sébastian Meunier, who took over the helm of the brand together with Demeulemeester’s long-time collaborators, is keeping true to her aesthetic while creating a new form of gentle and respectful poetry. By looking back at Ann Demeulemeester’s archives, Meunier moves ahead and reinterprets the brand’s staples with a clean design approach. For the Spring – Summer 2015, painterly influences and soft-punk suggestions were played out in a extremely subtle way, reminiscent of the rebel-romanic spirit of the AW 2003 collection. Lightweight mesh fabrics and finely embroidered silks in black, ivory and icy tones were loosely draped around the body. The Edwardian cuts of destructured jackets and asymmetric vests, tied and buckled with trailing straps, payed a true testament to Ann’s grace. Ephemeral and fleeting as dandelions in the wind, the pieces flattered the female slihouettes, while catching the eye within the fascinating movement of multiple layers of fabric. A flower-inspired silver motif was introduced to variate the cautiously referential theme of the collection. Without being ground-breaking, Sébastian Meunier’s work was visually beautiful and highly sophisticated.
Afraid of the unknown, the poets keep on digging in their past culture while waiting for the rise of a new moon.