Carol Christian Poell – Fe-male Collection 2010 Presentation

Revolutionary Austrian designer Carol Christian Poell presented his last womenswear, Fe-male Collection 2010, on Monday, October 31, 2011 at the space, entirely dedicated to his works, of the gallery/concept store Motelsalieri, Via Giovanni Lanza 162, Rome. Scientist and textile engineer, Poell bases his women’s line on the concepts of Dead End and Self-Edge, key elements also of the men’s collection, which the womenswear is adapted, exploring new design possibilities. The incredible research into tailoring gives rise to garments cut in one single piece of fabric, on which are open seams constantly deviated, as a series of “dead ends” that lead nowhere but create a stunning and extremely complex shape. The kangaroo, horse or buffalo leather, treated after making up, wraps strictly the body, forming  sculptural accessories and cylindrical dresses like self structures, or assumes a protective feature through prosthetic metal jacket elbows, boot toes and gloves knuckles, which deform the figure through arthrosic fingers. The knitwear traps and reflects the light, creating an X-ray effect through classic yarns coated with minuscules particles of glass on an aluminium undercoat. A new technique, focus on the selvage of the fabric, revolutionizes the fabrication of garments. Ancient Japanese handlooms are used to weave ultra-natural fibres, carefully selected, and every garments’ seam, through a very specialized cutting method, coencides with the selvage, the self-finished edges of fabric, which seems to “self-seam” the pieces. This process inevitably results in an high consumption of fabric, wasting his central part, and asks an astonishing construction technique, because the seams, necessarily asymmetric, are translated into perfectly symmetrical shaped clothes. An incomparable artistic study and a craft-based connotation lead to innovative, radically brilliant creations; to a staggering women’s collection, totally in line with CCP‘s experimental approach.

  • Carol Christian Poell – Fe-male Collection 2010 Presentation

    Article by
    Cecilia Musmeci

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    Photography

    Motelsalieri