Entering the Creative Door showroom in Paris, just a few blocks from the historically gory Bastille arena, what impresses is the bare, stark ambiance, cradle of fantastic garments and accessories hanging all around the unfurnished space. Essentiality is in its positive conception, synonym of the last peak of complexity, and so a white, semi empty space is the witness of a proud exertion on this new luxury invaluable. Operating on such a clear outlook makes the works of the joint designers ( names like Rad Hourani, Glenn Martens, Kristofer Kongshaug or Jen Kao) verging on some points of research. The meticulous essentialization comes most of the times with the will to create concrete, tactile pieces. The feeling towards the creations, a catharsis made possible by the archetypal of fabrics and materials; the slouchy, at times primitive design, is imperative. As Robin Maeson made me notice, what is far above current high fashion attitude is the pathos overriding creations to the public. We are not iconically distant, but strongly present, producing an impact, surrounded by great energy. And once again, the process of essentialization implied in their best pieces is the one which brings you to line a deep, firm cut instead of proceeding for adaptation. A comprehensive view obviously comes through Glenn Martens works, rigorously oriented to the tactile world of heavy-grained wools and the sheer elegance of silks. The concrete dimension and the rigour of the work behind his latest collection puts forward his intrinsic new way of conceiving practical themes. The basic need of finding a new dialogue between the essential material / form and the body goes along with the need to extremize the process of re approaching daily reality. Volumes, in particular, can be at once loose and edgy in structural terms. Concepts are isolated and seen under an objective light, embraced, moulded into new coherent constructions: the complexity of essentialization. It is a means to re taking virtual hold and meaning of the creation process.