Understanding the silhouette of clothing is not an easy task. According to the principles of good design the silhouette should tell part of the creative story and work with the materials, construction details and any embellishments, while looking as good when worn as it did in the designer’s imagination.

Chitose Abe, creative force behind the Japanese brand Sacai, masters the perfect mix of all those elements. Season after season, Abe works with traditional shapes and ideas that often come from sportswear, utilitarian clothing and folk costumes. Through a great understanding of silhouettes and proportions, she is able to crossbreed multiple garments into a single one. Eclectic mash-ups and unexpected hybrids represent at best her design signature. For Fall, Sacai’s fearless experimentation focused on outerwear, dissecting menswear and military staples and blending them to couture suggestions. The styles were bulky and imposing yet wearable and feminine, expertly constructed to highlight the contrasts of different textures of fabrics. Folk inspired patterns such as Nordic knits and boho Baja hoodies were transformed into graceful three-piece outfits and voluminous furs with contemporary edge. Once again, Chitose Abe’s iconoclastic take on modern tailoring gave birth to an incredibly powerful collection.