Chitose Abe’s talent of reinventing traditional garment making techniques through solutions that exceed any ordinary expectation is a rare gift.
Every season, the designer’s personal challenge is to cross the limits she estabilished with her previous collection, developing interesting designs with quality and innovation as fundamental values. For the Men’s Spring-Summer 2014 collection, she explored the masculine tailoring tradition, realising classic pieces which feature several elements she took from sportswear and military style. The stiff and slightly sculptural proportions of jackets and coats are finely structured through resin caoted fabrics and bonded fabrics which make the shapes extremely voluminous witout being heavy. The classic suit pants are cut to the knee and reworked as shorts, while keeping the traditional suiting material, which adds a new identity to its historical heritage. An eclectic combination of colors complicates the game of different textures, highlighting small details such as the drawstring hem of kinitwear pieces or the cuffs in contrasting rib knit material, which strongly claim the eye’s attention.
With subtle delicacy, Sacai subverts the rules of shilhouette and construction, marking the unexpected juxtaposition of patterns and fabrics as a large scale projection of a more hidden revolutionary impetus.