In Japan when a building goes under construction you cant really see the work in progress. They wrapped it up like a present, hiding its rough and cracked façace.
Yohji Yamamoto has always rejected any conventional ideal of perfection to find beauty in scars, failure, disorder and distortion. Disjointed piano keys introduced his Fall / Winter 2015 – 2016 collection, in which he expressed once again his aesthetic statement, this time inspired by the whimsical aspect of unfinished buildings. The idea has been transposed into imposing dresses that featured articulated frames and metallic corsets left incomplete. Tucked into this wearable sculptures, the models looked like cybernetics arachnids coming from a sci-fi dimension, while the clothes’ complex construction and generous volumes recalled the famous wedding dresses that Mr. Yamamoto showcased in 1999. To soften the rigidity conveyed by the artsy gowns, the Japanese Master worked with single pieces of fabrics gracefully draped in Greek style. Like ancient tunics, the outfits did not have any seam or cut; they were simply folded around the body. The research of pure and essential silhouettes inspired also the elegant Japanese kimonos that came in an all-black palette infused with some touches of intense red.
The emotional charge was strong and touched the audience deeply. Some even interpreted the full performance as a possible Yoji‘s farewell. But this is not the end and Mr. Yamamoto has still not cease to surprise us.