Textiles have always been central in the work of Yohji Yamamoto.
As he writes in his famous autobiography My Dear Bomb, the fabric has much to teach us. Sketches do not determinate the clothing, it is rather the fabric together with the human body. At the beginning of the past season, the Japanese Master hand stitched together three overlapped cardstocks. The layering of different textures and the depth suggested by the folded paper inspired the Autumn – Winter 2015 /2016 Men’s collection. Each piece was skilfully made by using three different types of fabrics. Exposed seams, frayed hems and raw edges revealed the juxtaposition of materials as if they were violently torn apart and sewn back together again. The coloured velvet outfits, reminiscent of shimmering Italian marbles, beautifully showcased this origami-inspired construction. Yamamoto’s experimentation with patterns was driven by his fascination with surgery. The bruised and scarred faces of the models strengthen this butchered feeling conveyed by the collection. The stiffness of traditional tailored men’s suits was killed through irregular stitches that let the fabric move freely at the back of the jackets. Everything, from the loose volumes to the arrogant shades of black, embodied Yohji Yamamoto‘s unique heritage.
Yohji’s voice and the sound of his guitar gave a soft and relaxed rhythm to the catwalk, touching the brand’s hard-core fans deep at heart.